Amid the clamour of car horns, clinking rickshaw bells, and echoing street cries, there lies a world unlike any other — Chandni Chowk, the enduring heartbeat of Old Delhi. For many Gulf travellers with roots or interests in India, this iconic 400-year-old market is more than a shopping destination — it is a rich tapestry of culture, craft, and culinary history.
A Personal Journey Through Time
For many diaspora families now living across the Gulf, a visit to Old Delhi evokes childhood nostalgia. One writer from Dubai recounts early memories of being nestled in a cycle rickshaw, navigating through bustling lanes packed with vendors, pedestrians, and old-world charm. Her hand clasped tightly in her father’s, she recalls being awestruck by the chaos and colour: hawkers shouting, the scent of sizzling kebabs in the air, and shops bursting with bangles, fabrics, and spice jars. These journeys always ended with a hearty meal at Karim’s — a culinary institution still etched in the memories of generations.
Years later, college explorations drew her back for silver jewellery hunts, and pre-wedding shopping led to countless trips in search of the perfect embroidered lehenga hidden within the labyrinth of lanes. Her story mirrors that of countless Gulf-based Indians who return to rediscover a slice of their heritage.
Navigating Chandni Chowk: A Curated Guide
Chandni Chowk, or “Moonlight Square,” stretches over 5 kilometers and is segmented into vibrant bazaars, each with its distinct identity. Though chaotic, this sensory overload of sights and sounds rewards the brave with treasures that are either unavailable or unaffordable elsewhere.
🪙 Dariba Kalan – Silver & Scents
Known for its legacy of fine silver, Dariba Kalan is a magnet for those seeking quality craftsmanship. Shops like Plata Arts and Jain Silver Arts offer both chunky tribal pieces and minimalist designs, with options to customize. But it’s not just about jewellery. Just steps away, Gulab Singh Johri Mal, established in 1816, is Delhi’s oldest perfumery, offering handmade ittar, incense, and heritage rose water. Next door, Narendra Pharmacy, a 140-year-old Ayurvedic store, supplies wellness staples like ashwagandha and shilajit — a nod to India’s enduring natural medicine tradition.
👗 Kinari Bazaar – Wedding Wonders
For Gulf brides seeking bespoke Indian attire, Kinari Bazaar is bridal heaven. The famed Om Prakash Jawahar Lal is known for custom couture, while Arun Vastra Bhandar offers dazzling Banarasis and rich Kanjeevarams. Budget-conscious buyers will appreciate skilled tailors who replicate designer styles at a fraction of the cost — a practice popular among savvy Dubai and Doha brides.
DIY enthusiasts can explore stalls filled with borders, laces, and sequins for customised outfits. At Mittal Emporium, lightweight Lucknowi chikankari kurtas begin at just ₹900 — perfect for the Gulf summer. For Indo-western fashionistas, Asiana Couture is a top pick for fusion styles.
🌶️ Khari Baoli – The Spice Epicentre
This historic spice bazaar, a ten-minute walk from Kinari Bazaar, is a fragrant and colourful overload. Asia’s largest, Khari Baoli stocks everything from saffron strands to Kashmiri chillies. For assured quality and hygiene, 15 Chawalwala, operating since 1938, is highly recommended — especially for Gulf residents looking to carry authentic Indian flavours back home.
Where To Eat: A Culinary Pilgrimage
Chandni Chowk is not just a shopper’s paradise; it’s a street food sanctuary. These are the must-try stops:
🍖 Karim’s – Royal Flavours
Hidden near Jama Masjid, Karim’s dates back to 1913 and was founded by a chef from the Mughal court. It’s a pilgrimage for meat lovers. The mutton barra and chicken kebabs are smoky perfection, while the chicken jahangiri and qorma offer a spectrum of Mughlai richness. Pair them with sheermal or khameeri roti, and end with their indulgent kheer benazeer.
🍬 Chaina Ram Sindhi Confectioners
Since 1901, this sweet shop has served Sindhi favourites such as singhar ji barfi and pinni — wintertime treats ideal for gifting or indulgence. During Holi, the gheeyar — a giant jalebi studded with nuts — is a seasonal sensation.
🍩 Old Famous Jalebi Wala
Established in 1884, this unassuming corner shop delivers jalebis like no other — thick, syrup-soaked with a chewy centre. Add a scoop of rabri for an unmatched dessert experience.
🥣 Daulat ki Chaat
Available only in winter, this ethereal dessert — made from early morning dew-set milk foam — is a rare Old Delhi delicacy. At just ₹50 per bowl, it’s worth braving the chill.
🍛 Tiwari Ji Chole Bhature
Located at the entrance of Paranthe Wali Gali, this small outlet serves some of Delhi’s best paneer-stuffed bhature with spicy chole, seasonal pickles, and a tangy onion salad — a filling meal for just ₹100.
🍗 Aslam’s Butter Chicken
A newer crowd-puller, Aslam offers a rich, grilled version of butter chicken — drowned in butter and cream, served without tomato gravy. It’s indulgence on a plate.
🍡 Ghantewala Halwai
Dating back to 1790, this iconic sweet shop has long attracted celebrities and political elites. From motichoor laddoos to gluten-free ragi sweets, it blends tradition with modern trends.
Getting There & Gulf-Savvy Tips
Take the Delhi Metro’s Yellow Line to Chandni Chowk Station, then hop into a cycle rickshaw for ₹50–₹100. Alternately, a taxi to the Red Fort gate entrance will place you at the market’s doorstep.
Tips for Gulf Visitors:
- Avoid valuables. Pickpocketing is not uncommon.
- Use sanitiser. Many eateries are outdoors.
- Stay hydrated. Carry bottled water.
- Dress modestly. Respect local norms.
- Bargain wisely. It’s expected, but politeness goes a long way.
Final Thoughts: A Living Monument
To walk through Chandni Chowk is to traverse centuries of trade, taste, and tradition. For visitors from the Gulf — whether returning NRI families or curious tourists — this market is more than a destination. It is a living museum, where every lane tells a story, every shop carries legacy, and every bite offers a connection to home.
So come with an open heart, a hungry belly, and a little extra room in your suitcase — Chandni Chowk promises to fill it all.
